No birru at the brewery

Without anything to do monday we decided to go downtown Sapporo for a wander. In Japan all cities have a subway system and a train system that is connected to the national train system, so there are two networks of public transportation which crisscross and meet sometimes to create a confusing system unless you're in the know. We arrived at Sapporo's main station where all subway lines, train lines, and bus lines meet, needless to say it was huge and very confusing. To add to that there is a giant underground shopping mall and restaurant area, probably the size of the eaton center buried under everything. We finally escaped and made our way to the famous Sapporo clock tour which was once part of the University of Hokkaido. The city of Sapporo was established after Japan's long period of cultural isolation at the end of the 1800's. The politics of the country changed dramatically there was a strong interest in westernizing the country. Because Hokkaido was barely touched before this time, the foundations of the city could be built up in the western style. The agricultural university was taught mainly by americans  who introduced new methods and machines for farming. They even insisted that the Japanese speak only english and take on an American diet, defined as mostly bread, milk, pork and ice cream, to have a true cultural immersion. We then went to a large department store called Tokyu Hands, which is in theory supposed to be a craft supply store, but this 6 storey shop sold a lot more than craft supplies. Valentine's day is a big deal in Japan, and women traditionally make sweets to give to their sweet hearts and friends. Not only did they have kits to make truffles and cakes, but had equally as many to make plastic sweets, and decorative cakes. The store also had three different kinds of bamboo ear wax pickers and hand towels that were folded so they looked like various desserts. 

The next day I went by myself to the botanical gardens of the university and went inside the various greenhouses, as the outside portion does not open until spring. I then went to the first city hall, which is in a western style like most historic buildings in Hokkaido, with beautiful red bricks and a large garden surrounding it. And of course like all trees and shrubs in Japan, all the ones in the city hall park were wrapped up beautifully with bamboo stakes, twine and burlap to protect them from the harsh winters. The building has now turned museum, and they had a full two rooms devoted to propaganda about the three islands that are pseudo shared with russia, just north of Hokkaido, and how the Japanese should take ownership. I then walked over to the Sapporo brewery hoping for a brewery tour or beer tasting. I arrived to the beautiful red brick building, very much in the style of the distillery district in Toronto, and wandered around looking for something beer like. There was none to be had! Just one room with old boilers, beer cans and tv commercials. The old building was filled with small artisan shops with specialty goods from the Sapporo area, mostly shortbread and pumpkin filled (my personal favorite) cookies and chocolates with dehydrated strawberries inside (also very tasty).

I